DANIELLE MARKS
Map Illustration
by Danielle Marks
Danielle Marks Design
364 Lakeview Drive
Hartfield, VA 23071-3110
804 238-1539
All artwork © 2015
Danielle Marks
a mulberry tree dripping with ripe berries.
“Oh, those are sweet,” said Britney, sam-
pling one of the pink berries. “And I love
the canopy feel of the trail, especially on a
hot day.” At mile 9, a good rest stop is the
Wakulla Station trailhead, with water, rest-
rooms, shaded pavilions and a Boundless
Playground—a specially designed facility
suitable for children of all abilities.
A couple miles south of the trailhead,
we made a pleasant discovery at the log-
cabin-style Wakulla United Methodist
Church. The congregation has installed a
drinking fountain beside the trail, accom-
panied by a spiritual message and an
invitation to everyone to attend services,
regardless of how one is dressed.
Just past U.S. Highway 98, where the
trail crossing is clearly marked, we veered
off the trail a hundred yards to access
the Beach Trader gift shop. The owner,
George McCreery, offers free ice water for
trail users and free popsicles for children.
“The trail is wonderful,” he said. “After
cooling off here, a lot of people come
back and buy some furniture and souve-
nirs. By the way, did you see any alligators
on the trail?”
“Uh, no,” I answered.
“Well, they’re on the move now. A big
one crossed in front of the store not long
ago,” McCreery said. Alligators occasion-
ally move on land during the spring mat-
ing season or if their swamps or ponds
dry up, and sometimes they are simply
seeking a sunny spot in which to bask.
But to Floridians, alligators aren’t new,
and Britney and I aren’t phased. There has
never been a report of aggressive alligators
along the St. Marks Trail.
Leaving the Beach Trader, our fingers
sticky from eating dripping popsicles, we
rode another 2 miles to the San Marcos de
Apalache Historic State Park in the town
of St. Marks. Situated at the confluence
of the Wakulla and St. Marks rivers, this
site is where Spanish, English, American,
Confederate and Native American forc-
es—along with swashbuckling pirates—
fought for control of the region for several
centuries. We stood on the shore of the St.
Marks River and scanned the vast expanse
of salt marsh, tree islands and flowing
water that leads to the open Gulf, 5 miles
south. It was difficult to fathom how such
a peaceful spot, visited today by tourists,
bicyclists, hikers and boaters, could have
such a turbulent history. All roads and land
trails stop here, but visitors can roam the
stone ruins of a fort for free or pay a small
fee for a museum tour.
By this time, lunch was in order, so
we decided to honor a long-standing
trail tradition: enjoying fresh seafood at
the Riverside Cafe on the shores of the
St. Marks River (in our case, it was yel-
lowfin tuna, the day’s special). Owner
Stanley West started his business 20 years
ago with a hot dog cart; now he boasts
two massive open-air dining rooms, one
of which is a Seminole Indian pen-sided
structure known as a chickee. The thou-
sands of thatched palm fronds that make
up the roof emitted a sweet aroma.
“This town is not along any major
highway, so it is a destination. You have
to want to come here,” West said. “It used
to be at the end of a railroad, and now
we’re at the end of a bike trail. Trail users
make up 15 to 20 percent of my busi-
ness. The trail’s been good for the whole
community.”
No doubt the historic St. Marks Trail
is also good for the more than 140,000
people who utilize the canopied path each
year for health, relaxation and access to
tasty food.
Doug Alderson is the author of several award-
winning outdoor books, including“Wild Florida
Adventures,”“Waters Less Traveled” and “New
Dawn for the Kissimmee River.” He is assistant
bureau chief for the Florida Office of Greenways
&Trails, the lead planning entity for non-motor-
ized trails in the state. An avid cyclist, hiker and
paddler, he lives south of Tallahassee, just 2
miles from the St. Marks Trail.
Beach Trader gift shop owner George
McCreery offers free cold treats and friendly
chatter to users of the St. Marks Trail.
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